Russian Lips: Technique or Trend?

The vertical fanning technique creates height rather than projection — with caveats.

16 April 2026 · 5 min read

What it is

Multiple small vertical retrograde threads from the wet-dry border to the vermillion, lifting the lip upward rather than forward.

More entry points means more trauma, swelling and bruising, and greater cumulative product if repeated frequently.

Not every anatomy suits the flat, tall aesthetic. Long philtrums and thin lower lips often look better with classic technique.

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The best lip work respects the existing anatomy — ratio, vermillion border and philtral column define the result.

Midface volume loss drives much of what patients read as tired — restoring it lifts the whole face.

Chin projection transforms profile balance and often reduces the perceived size of the nose.